1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse

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4 years 5 months ago #138445 by B-T-S
I have a '93 mazda B2600i, it's driving me crazy, we can't figure it out for nothing!. We bought about a year ago, it was running but didn't have much power and would sputter if you would push on the gas pedal to hard. The ol thing quit running completely after about a month. We replaced the distributor (original was rusted up and screws broke off in it), along with the distributor was the crank position sensor, we also had the ECM rebuilt and we tested the main relay (works fine). We have also replaced or tested all the other sensors and still no go. So then we tested every ground wire and checked all the other wires. We can't find anything wrong, we had several friends (who are mechanics) look at it and they don't have a clue.
It just has no spark and no injector pulse.

I have gotten so sick of this pickup, I just went and bought a '93 Mazda B2200 that has a carburetor and it runs perfect.
Any info would be great
Thanks

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4 years 5 months ago #138468 by college man
Replied by college man on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse

Believe it or not Iam trying to help you.

Proud to be Eric The Car Guy Certified.

Over 10,000 posts strong.

Mobil1 New Jersey highway tested everyday.
The following user(s) said Thank You: B-T-S

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4 years 5 months ago - 4 years 5 months ago #138697 by SilentDawn
Replied by SilentDawn on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
I've owned quite a few of these trucks...I'm a Mazda "minitruck" enthusiast. THE #1 cause of this problem is a faulty ECU. I know you said you had it repaired...But I still highly suspect it was not repaired correctly/fully and/or tested before it was sent back to you. This is very common to get a "new" or "repaired" ECU that still won't work. Because by this time EVERY one of these ECU's has been "repaired" by someone or are defective. These ECU's have a 100% failure rate of the capacitors. When they fail, they leak electrolyte onto the board and corrode/break the traces underneath components. So if you don't check continuity for ALL of the affected traces, it will still not function.

I can offer three solutions to you.
* You can send me your ECU and I'll repair AND TEST it on a working B2600i I have. (Non Profit - I am not selling a service on the forum)
* I can send you a spare ECU for testing purposes and you send it back. (I need to double check to make sure I still have one)
* You can post up close, high resolution pictures and I can identify suspect components/traces for you to inspect and repair.

I would not continue any further of replacing/adjusting components until we are SURE the ECU is good. I see too many of these poor trucks in the junkyards being picked apart because they just had a bad ECU that was "replaced/repaired" with another defective one.

Chris O. - DarkWülf Performance Euro auto tuning and customizing East Coast, NC/VA

(~)14 Challenger SRT(~)10 VW GTI; 2.0T(~)03 VW Jetta 1.8t(~)96 VW Passat VR6; Turbo(~)81 VW Caddy(~)81 VW Rabbit; diesel(~)99 BMW M3(~)98 VW Jetta TDI(~)72 VW Super Beetle(~)87 Mazda B2000; FE3 turbo(~)
Last edit: 4 years 5 months ago by SilentDawn.
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4 years 5 months ago #138702 by B-T-S

SilentDawn wrote: I've owned quite a few of these trucks...I'm a Mazda "minitruck" enthusiast. THE #1 cause of this problem is a faulty ECU. I know you said you had it repaired...But I still highly suspect it was not repaired correctly/fully and/or tested before it was sent back to you. This is very common to get a "new" or "repaired" ECU that still won't work. Because by this time EVERY one of these ECU's has been "repaired" by someone or are defective. These ECU's have a 100% failure rate of the capacitors. When they fail, they leak electrolyte onto the board and corrode/break the traces underneath components. So if you don't check continuity for ALL of the affected traces, it will still not function.

I can offer three solutions to you.
* You can send me your ECU and I'll repair AND TEST it on a working B2600i I have. (Non Profit - I am not selling a service on the forum)
* I can send you a spare ECU for testing purposes and you send it back. (I need to double check to make sure I still have one)
* You can post up close, high resolution pictures and I can identify suspect components/traces for you to inspect and repair.

I would not continue any further of replacing/adjusting components until we are SURE the ECU is good. I see too many of these poor trucks in the junkyards being picked apart because they just had a bad ECU that was "replaced/repaired" with another defective one.



I've been wondering about the computer, but I didn't really no what to do about it, after the "rebuild" (which I was not impressed with) I had a friend look at it who has a electronics repair shop (he can fix anything) and he looked at it and cleaned it. He said it looked fine, there was no corrosion and nothing looked out of the ordenarry. The place I had rebuild it was AVPROECM.com and they did a awful job. when I got it back the pickup would start and run for about 10 minutes then it would turn off the injector pulse and spark. The pickup would not restart unless it sat for 1 day. Then it would fire right back up (it would run perfect) and then do the same thing. the more it was started the less it would run each time until now it wont start anymore.

If you would want to mess with it, I would be interested in sending it to you, I don't have anymore ideas? this B2600i is in really good condition, no rust or dents, it seems a shame having it sit here not running.
Thanks for your help

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4 years 5 months ago #138717 by Evil-i

B-T-S wrote: I have a '93 mazda B2600i, it's driving me crazy, we can't figure it out for nothing!. We bought about a year ago, it was running but didn't have much power and would sputter if you would push on the gas pedal to hard. The ol thing quit running completely after about a month. We replaced the distributor (original was rusted up and screws broke off in it), along with the distributor was the crank position sensor, we also had the ECM rebuilt and we tested the main relay (works fine). We have also replaced or tested all the other sensors and still no go. So then we tested every ground wire and checked all the other wires. We can't find anything wrong, we had several friends (who are mechanics) look at it and they don't have a clue.
It just has no spark and no injector pulse.

I have gotten so sick of this pickup, I just went and bought a '93 Mazda B2200 that has a carburetor and it runs perfect.
Any info would be great
Thanks


You already went down a similar road I was going to suggest. Instead of farting around with cranky 22 year-old electronics, you could try converting the engine to a slightly earlier carburetted version. If you have the Mitsubishi 2.6L engine, it shouldn't be too hard to scavenge the required parts. The carb version was used in many Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge/Mitsu vehicles for several years. Trying to convert the Mazda 2.6L engine is going to be more challenging. I think the MPV van was the only other vehicle it was used in.

Having said all that, the most sensible solution might be to put the cranky B2600 up on blocks and keep it as a donor of body/chassis parts, and enjoy the B2200 instead.

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4 years 5 months ago #138768 by EricTheCarGuy
Replied by EricTheCarGuy on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
I'm not sure if the conversion is the way to go. I think there would be a lot of work involved with that. That said, if you've verified the operation of the sensors and the wiring, it really only leaves the computer.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.

Stay dirty

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4 years 5 months ago - 4 years 5 months ago #138783 by SilentDawn
Replied by SilentDawn on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
As much as I love engine swaps, the Carbed G54 mitsu engine used in the ealier B2600's isn't worth the work, even swapping to the EFI turbo Mitsu. Starion engine isn't worth the work (I've done it)

The engine mounts/locations are different between his B2600i Mazda G6 engine and B2600 Mitsu. G54 Also the transmissions are different, with different bellhousings / axle flanges / lengths.

The B2600i 2.6 engine is actually surprisingly potent, compared to the 2.2L Carbed, guttless wounder of the B2200. You will thoroughly enjoy the wonderful low - midrange torque of the 2.6i.

The extent of my work on the F2 2.2 carbed and EFI engines in the B2200's is remove them, throw them in a scrap heap for someone racing little Super4 race cars. I toss in a Kia Sportage 2.0 FE3 EFI engine. Double the HP/torque and double the fuel mileage with a simple bolt-in engine swap. I'll never waste my time on a F2 2.2 Mazda engine again.

Before I go ahead and have you send me your ECU:

Have you checked the camshaft timing?
Have you made sure your distributor is clocked correctly?
Do you have an "RPM" scale on a digital volt meter? You can test to see if your distributor is outputting the RPM signals for the ECU. (Ne signal and G signal: probe the pink and yellow/blue wires individually to test each *Don't probe them together*)
Check for power/ground at the ECU:
Connector 1: 22 pin
Connector 2: 26 pin
* Connector 1, pin I - Ignition power (black/white)
* Connector 1, pin A - Hot at all times (blue/red)
* Connector 1, Pin B - Ignition power from Main relay (black/yellow)
* Connector 2, pins A and B - Ground (black)

Keep in mind, your problem may not be completely solved with the ECU. I have a suspicion your previous problems of sputtering and lack of power at WOT is due to a weak/failing fuel pump and/or fuel filter. Fuel filters on these pickups are VERY sensitive to dirt and will cause major running problems once they start to clog up. You may also need to clean your MAF sensor (AND clean the MAF sensor wires/connector) and check for major intake leaks in the intake bellows and hoses. Another common area of a huge vacuum leak is that big black box on the back of the intake pipe that is the intake muffler. Its sealed by a loose-fitting o-ring.

Chris O. - DarkWülf Performance Euro auto tuning and customizing East Coast, NC/VA

(~)14 Challenger SRT(~)10 VW GTI; 2.0T(~)03 VW Jetta 1.8t(~)96 VW Passat VR6; Turbo(~)81 VW Caddy(~)81 VW Rabbit; diesel(~)99 BMW M3(~)98 VW Jetta TDI(~)72 VW Super Beetle(~)87 Mazda B2000; FE3 turbo(~)
Last edit: 4 years 5 months ago by SilentDawn.

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2 weeks 5 days ago #203684 by Andreas92
Replied by Andreas92 on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
HI!


are you stil active on this forum?

i have a Mazda b2600i and i am having the same problem as the one mentioned in this tread.

could you pleas test my ecu if i send it to you?


Best regards
Andreas

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2 weeks 4 days ago #203701 by SilentDawn
Replied by SilentDawn on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
Would you be able to send photo's of the ECU board? I can usually see from photo's if the Mazda B2600i ECU may be the issue.

Chris O. - DarkWülf Performance Euro auto tuning and customizing East Coast, NC/VA

(~)14 Challenger SRT(~)10 VW GTI; 2.0T(~)03 VW Jetta 1.8t(~)96 VW Passat VR6; Turbo(~)81 VW Caddy(~)81 VW Rabbit; diesel(~)99 BMW M3(~)98 VW Jetta TDI(~)72 VW Super Beetle(~)87 Mazda B2000; FE3 turbo(~)

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2 weeks 4 days ago #203704 by Andreas92
Replied by Andreas92 on topic 1993 Mazda B2600i No spark or injector pulse
Sorry but i do not have the ecu here at the moment, but i have opened it earlyer and all the caps look fine and i am not able to see any corrotion ore rust... is there anything else you usually look for?

The thing thats strange is that i got a nother used ecu with the exact same fault, starts and runns for a while than stops and might star right away ore it can take some time befor it restarts, after that its fine until i stop it with the key...


Best regards
Andreas

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