ETCG Answers Questions Live #83 (AMA) 3/1/2017

Hey Eric, your videos and website help a lot in understanding and doing the procedures for auto repairs. Thank you for that. My question is about the heater core. During the summer, when the heater is not being used, is the coolant in the heater core stuck in the heater core for months until I turn on my heat in the winter? Does that stuck coolant make a heater core go bad? And if it does should I turn the heat on at certain times in the Summer to flush out that stuck coolant? Thank you.

Hi Eric,

I have an intermittent problem with my BMW e46 328i (EU – spec, 12/2000, 5-speed manual, 120000 miles). Long story short, it is difficult to put the car in gear, especially reverse, 1st and 2nd after cold starts in the winter. After cold starts during the summer when it is generally hotter outside there is no problem at all. Basically, whenever the temperatures are below 50F it is a nightmare to get the gear lever to go in the desired position. It requires so much force that I feel like I am going to actually break something… What I have been doing is either leave the car running for like 10 min and then drive, since then the problem is not as pronounced, or shift in 4th or 5th first, and only then without taking my foot of the clutch put it in 1st. Both of these tricks do the job. It should be pointed out that this problem goes away entirely when the engine reaches operating temperature, which usually happens after 20min of driving. Initially I though it was old transmission fluid. Therefore, I got it changed, as well as, the oil in the diff with the appropriate ones at the BMW dealership and the problem still persists. While there, I asked the mechanics about this and they said that it is probably normal and there isn’t anything obviously wrong with my car. Still, somehow I doubt that, as when I got the car about 6 years ago something like this was never a problem. This thing has been happening and has become worse since the past winter.

PS: I also performed your clutch slipping test and the clutch seems fine… There are also no check engine lights and no strange noises come from the transmission either.

Hello Eric I have a 2005 Honda s2000 55k miles and in immaculate condition garage kept its whole but after start up shifts from 1st to second has not a grind but a knotch felling and doesn’t change due to high or low rpm shifting once car is warm to operating tep shifts are smooth on both highway and street the only way to prevent the feeling is to shift from 1st to neautral wait a brief sec and go into 2nd. Any clues, tsb, model behavior you might know about? Stay dirty your channel is great

Hi Eric,
I wanted to get your opinion on piston slap. In my case it presents as a knocking noise that only occurs in winter months when the engine is cold. It goes away as the engine warms up. I have no performance issues at all.
This is on a 2004 Subaru Forester with 103,000 miles. I’ve had it 7 years, and this car has had good oil change history since new. This has been a great car and I intend to keep it, the only things needed in the coming year will be new struts and new tires, and so before spending that money I wanted to get your opinion. I do not mind this noise, But want to know if you feel this sort of thing is a harmless noise consistent with age and not a more serious and detrimental condition. Are there any tests you would think of doing if you were checking this car out yourself?

good day Eric. 2 questions
1st. will you ever do daily vlog type videos. I like to watch other youtubers vlog channels and think if you did it to it would be super awesome. (See now, and watch how the Magnificent eric the car guy goes to walmart to pick up milk and eggs!!!!!).not gonna lie to you, I would totally watch it.

2nd. have you ever had a close call in the shop, like a near miss, and if so would you like to share your near miss story with us? if not that is ok too.

have a great day and I always look forward to new content from you. yours truly, Colin

Hello Eric

My Dad’s 1996 Honda Accord 4cyl was recently welded on. The Alternator seized and I replaced it with a reman from (reputable auto parts store) and it started smoking. Checked the battery voltage while it was running 14.4 volts. is this a problem with the new alternator or the ECM as it might have been damaged? Have you seen this before?

timinglight

My name is David. Please forgive me for this long message
I have a 1989 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GTA 5.7L

After a month sitting on the garage I tried to start it up and it will crank but not start.

I check the fuel pressure with a gage and I have Fuel.
I check for Spark on Number one Spark Cable and had no spark.
I proceeded to check Spark coming from the Coil and had no Spark
I then check for the signal coming from the Ignition Module to the Coil and no signal detected. But it did had the 12 volt on the red wire
I got the distributor Cover off and found that the pin that connects to the center port where the coil fires into was broken and no spring motion to the part that was left. (AJA Moment)
I check for the voltage on the pickup coil and the result where steady not fluctuating.
My hypothesis at this point was that when I started the car the piece broke and the hi voltage from the coil become like a (EMP) and damage the surrounding electronics.

I replace the Pickup Coil. Tested it and the voltage fluctuated a lot better than with the old one
I replace the Ignition module and tested it to send a signal to the coil and it did
I replace the ignition coil and tested it to fire and it did.

Put everything back together and give it a try. Since I had taken the distributor out I had to do the basic timing so I disconnected the computer brown cable that control the timing and start the car and it started at his point I believe my problem was over.
I did the initial timing 6 degrees BTDC.
Then I connected the Brown computer cable I started the engine again and this was very bad so bad that it stall and died.

At this point I’m thinking that it may be the computer but don’t know if it’s wrong input or the computer itself. So I decided to replace the computer and when I put the new computer I first started the car with the brown cable disconnected.

Put the base timing again
Then I connected the brown cable back and started the engine and it started at hi Idle for about 30 seconds and then it stall like before. Try a few times and it can’t keep idle with the computer connected.

Since the computer is remanufactured I believe I have some input to the computer bad but need to know what to check next.
Sorry for the long message please help.

Hi Eric,

Do you carry tools or spare parts in any of your vehicles?

I always carry a basic tool set, jump leads, and 1 quart of each fluid for the vehicle in the trunk weather I’m driving 5 mins down the street or a multi-hour journey. For those “I’d rather have it and not need it” moments.